Habitat Happenings

Estate Sale Sept 16-17

Join us as we host as estate sale Friday, September 16th and Saturday, September 17th. Items include books, tools, a record player, dining room set, grill, lawnmower, and more!


Where: ​7609 Rambeau Cir, Raleigh, NC 27613

When: Friday 9/16, 10am-3pm

Saturday 9/17 8am-2pm



Live Edge-Inspired Mirror Tutorial

This guest blog post was written by Zach Schiller, a third-year interior design student at the Art Institute of Raleigh-Durham and a member of the ASID student chapter. He specializes in custom-made pieces using locally-sourced, sustainable materials (including those found at the ReStore!). This is his second tutorial in partnership with Habitat Wake ReStores. 

This piece will be up for auction at the Raleigh location starting September 2nd. For more information on the auction, click here.

Photo 1 finished product Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Hello again!

A popular trend right now is live edge furniture and décor. Live edge pieces are usually often created with exotic wood, but I love maple and oak wood for live edge projects. They have so many knots and the trunks are always asymmetrical which makes them more interesting.  Unfortunately, a real live edge piece comes a hefty price tag: as expensive as $1,500 or even more. Our project will cost around $50.

Photo 2 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Live Edge Acacia Wood Mirror $1,150 on Etsy.


For this project we will be creating a live edge-inspired mirror for a lot less money using materials from Habitat Wake ReStores.

Dremel tool with 220 sanding bits (or you can sand by hand with 220 grit sandpaper)



1 Pine plank at 1x10x6 (make sure your plank is longer than the mirror)
Liquid nails
Heavy duty hanging hardware



1. Gather your materials. I found a 18”x28” mirror at Wake Habitat for Humanity for only $10 that came from a demolition. I wanted an older mirror because they tend to be thicker and heavier. I also picked up pine wood at the ReStores, which we’re going to use to make the live edge.


Photo 3 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

2. Remove the mirror from the frame using a flat-head screwdriver and rubber mallet. Wedge the screwdriver tip under the staples and lift them out. I used needle nose pliers to help lift out the staples.

Photo 4 259x300 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial Photo 5 e1470157984902 235x300 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial



3. Lift off the cardboard backing to expose the back of the mirror. There was adhesive but it didn’t stick to the cardboard very well, which is a good thing for us. The mirror easily lifted off the frame.

Photo 6 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial



4. Now you want to clean off the mirror really well with Windex and paper towels. Be careful with mirror edges because they can be very sharp. Don’t make this rookie mistake like I did!


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5. There was paint on the front of the mirror that we need to get off. Thankfully the mirror frame was painted with latex paint so it easily scraped off with a plastic card.

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6. Now we get to the fun stuff: cutting the shape for the live edge! Before you draw your design, find the center of your board and mark it with a pencil. Do this on both ends of the board. This helps with guiding where your lines should be. Now you can draw your design. If there are knots in your wood you will want to keep it in your design instead of cutting out the knots as they make the wood look more natural.

Photo 11 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial


7. Now its time to cut!

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Photo 13 201x300 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Cool kids wear safety glasses.












Safety glasses time! A jigsaw works very well here. Make sure the blade you have in your jigsaw is made for cutting out designs (it will be thinner and have smaller teeth that cut curves better). If you have a very intricate design you will want to make relief cuts, which is where you make several cuts out of the wood during the sawing process. Otherwise you may have a difficult time trying to get the jigsaw in tight curves. Work smart not hard.

Photo 14 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Here are both pieces. It’s coming along!


8. I wanted to create more of a natural edge like you would see on an actual live edge piece. This step is completely optional. To do this I took my handy jigsaw cut along the edges at a slight angle. You still have on your safety glasses right? Be very careful if you try this because wood pieces can fly at you and your blade is more exposed. Keep an eye on your blade and make sure your fingers are not caught in the crossfire. If you haven’t worked with a jigsaw before I wouldn’t suggest trying this.

Photo 15 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial


9. Time to sand the edges, folks.This is a good time to put on a face mask to keep those pesky wood particles out of your lungs. A very handy tool to have for this part (and for other projects) is a Dremel tool. I attached a 220 grit sanding bit and turned the Dremel power level to a very low setting of about 10 or 15 and sanded away. You still have on your safety glasses right? During this process you can also further manipulate the shape of your edges with the sanding bit.  After using the Dremel, I continued to smooth the edges with 300 grit sandpaper on a foam sanding block. This gives it a very fine finished look. After you complete the edges you will want to sand the top of your wood pieces. Since pine is naturally soft you can start with a finer sandpaper like 220, then you can follow with 300. I wouldn’t suggest sanding with anything finer than 300 because it may give you problems later on with the top finish coat adhering to the wood.

Photo 16 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial Photo 17 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial


10. Wipe off your boards with a damp rag to get rid of all the sanding dust. Lay your freshly sanded wood pieces on top of you mirror and position them where they would be mounted. This is when you should turn your wood upside down and flip them to opposite sides to see which way they look best. Remember that your two pieces of wood don’t have to perfectly mirror each other — perfectly imperfect is the idea here.

Photo 19 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

11. Measure, mark with pencil, and cut your board legnths down to the bottom edge of the mirror. You can use your jigsaw if you can cut a strait line. I played it safe and cut the excess length off with the compound miter saw. You could also use a handsaw.

12. After cutting the boards down to size, the proportions kind of changed. There is a natural knot in one of the planks. (Which I love) However it didn’t have a hole that went all the way through. So I grabbed a drill bit (here I used 1 inch but choose any size you like) and drilled a hole at a slight angle all the way through board. For some reason, this fixed what was missing. High-five for improvising! Now it’s perfect.

Photo 20 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial


13. Close to finished! Lets stain these pieces. I always use a rag to hand stain wood because I like to control the depth of the color. We are only going to stain the top of the wood in this step. But first we have to pre-stain. Do not skip this step, especially with pine and other soft woods. If you don’t use pre-stain, your wood won’t soak up the colored stain evenly and will end up with a very splotchy finish.

Photo 21 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Wipe on a coat of pre-stain and let it sit for 5-15 minutes. Wipe off the excess and follow with colored stain. Since I wanted a natural look I went with a lighter stain I got from Habitat Wake ReStores called “Polyshade Antique Walnut, which had polyurethane mixed in with it. Now stain away! But just the top. The edges are next.

14. Now lets stain the edges a shade darker than what we used on the top to mimic a real live edge piece, which would have a darker edge where the tree bark was once attached. I promise its worth the extra step. To create the darker shade I mixed the Antique Walnut with a very small amount of Red Mahogany stain. This created the perfect color balance. Feel free to experiment with other stain mixing. IMPORTANT: make sure to stain underneath the edges because the mirror will reflect part of the edge from underneath. You don’t have to stain the entire backside of the boards, just about an inch inward from the edges. Let the stain dry completely before going to the next step.

Photo 22 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Apply two layers of polyurethane to the top and edges of the wood and let dry for the recommended amount of time.

15. Attach the wood pieces to the mirror. I took one extra precautionary step to sand the sides of the mirror where the boards will be attached. This will help the glue adhere to the mirror. Get it nice and scratchy for the glue.  Apply Liquid Nails onto the backside of each wood piece. Be generous with the Liquid Nails because this mirror is pretty heavy. Clamp down the wood pieces to the mirror. IMPORTANT: Don’t clamp the mirror too tight or it will crack. Spring-loaded clamps work well for this.

Photo 24 227x300 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

I finished this part inside because its mid-July here in the Triangle. I wanted to add a little extra weight — unconventional, but it worked. Better safe than sorry.

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16. Last step! Add hanging hardware on the back. I keyhole bracket I found in the bottom of my toolbox. Lots of good things down there. These are heavy duty with two keyholes in each bracket which works perfectly since this mirror is heavy.  Make sure to pre-drill the screw holes to prevent your wood from cracking. Attach one bracket on each side and secure with ¾’’ inch screws. Do not over-tighten these screws or you may crack your wood. As a personal preference I attached small cork pieces on each corner to keep the mirror from scratching  up the wall. Growing up in a military family we moved a lot and I became expert at keeping the walls clean — less work when you move out.

Photo 26 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial Photo 27 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial


Now enjoy and show off your own live edge-inspired mirror!

Make sure to come back and check out my next DIY project tutorial.

A huge thank you to Habitat Wake for partnering with me. Be sure to visit any of their five stores for your own projects – there are great finds and more importantly, your purchases support your Wake County neighbors in need.

Photo 28 Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial

Excuse the mirror reflection. That’s my pup’s “dog loft” He doesn’t pick up after himself very well.


Photo 1 finished product Live Edge Inspired Mirror Tutorial





Clock Face Table Tutorial

This guest blog post was written by Zach Schiller, a third-year interior design student at the Art Institute of Raleigh-Durham and a member of the ASID student chapter. He specializes in custom-made pieces using locally-sourced, sustainable materials (including those found at the ReStore!)

This piece will be up for auction at the Raleigh location starting September 2nd. For more information on the auction, click here.


Pic 41 Clock Face Table Tutorial


Looking for new furniture can be exciting — and also really expensive. Many high-end furniture pieces cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. But with a little creativity, imagination, and some basic woodworking skills and tools, you can create your own masterpiece.

I highly encourage you to visit Habitat Wake ReStores. They have tons of stuff for almost any project. Even better, is the money you spend at goes to fund Habitat Wake’s efforts to build affordable housing alongside partner families in Wake County. Families apply to become buy a Habitat home and go through financial literacy and home ownership courses once they are selected. Then they help build their house alongside Habitat employees and volunteers. There are more than 28,000 families in Wake County still in need, so your dollars go far at the Habitat Wake ReStores!

I moved to the Raleigh area about four years ago and have been to multiple Habitat ReStore locations on the hunt for gems. I’ve created many of my projects using re-purposed ReStore items, so I thought it would be a great opportunity to show others how to build something similar.

I wanted to recreate a coffee table from two different coffee tables I’d recently seen. The first was this Hammacher Schlemmer Analog Clocktail Table, which has a classic look with a great distressed top. It’ll run you $600. The second table that caught my eye was from the Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood X-Base Collection. This farmhouse-style table would set you back $2600!

Table 300x265 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Table 2 300x184 Clock Face Table Tutorial

But! Since we are creative individuals, we will take characteristics from each table to create our own unique piece for far less money, and we can use reclaimed wood and materials, making it an environmentally -friendly project. I personally love this clock tabletop — clocks have a real sense of sophistication. I found oak wood flooring at the Wake Habitat location and managed to find pieces that didn’t have any adhesive or residue stuck to them.

Pic 2 251x300 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Use the reverse side that doesn’t have any finish on it.

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Salvaged oak flooring.












The wood flooring was unfinished on the underside which is a score for us! There is no sense in sanding off the old oak finish when there is a perfectly good side just by flipping the planks over. Also the underside of the planks have an extra groove in them that will add character to our table top.

1. Decide on tabletop shape and size. I went with an octagon shape with each side measuring 11’’ and has 22.5 degree angles

2. Lay out your wood planks and connect them together on a flat surface.

3. Create a stencil. You can use cardboard or foamboard for this part. I found it much easier to use the “Octagon Calculator”. It gives the angles and measurements to create the perfect octagon.

Pic 4 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Octagon calculator

4. Stencil your shape onto the planks. Draw your shape lightly in pencil on the surface of the wood planks. Or lay the stencil you made on your tabletop wood and trace around the edges of the stencil with a pencil.

Pic 5 Clock Face Table Tutorial

5. Glue and cut! I glued all the planks together and let them dry before cutting them with a circular saw. 

Pic 6 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Gluing planks together


Pic 8 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Tabletop taking shape!


6. Sand underside. Since there is a gloss finish on the underside, we need to rough up the edges where we are gluing the under trim. You can use 120 grit sandpaper. This allows the wood glue to adhere to the surface.

Pic 9 Clock Face Table Tutorial


7. Create under trim. Cut each piece to size at 45 degree angles and place them together, using wood glue to attach them to the planks then secure them with 1-1/4’’ brad nails. (I purchased a nail gun and it saves a lot of time and it very easy to use. It only cost $70 at Home Depot and is worth every penny.) Next add outer edge trim using the same method except for these edges you will be cutting at 22.5 degrees instead of 45 degrees. Since some edges may slightly be different lengths than other edges, it helps to measure and cut each trim piece as you go. This way you know for sure each trim piece fits. Also it helps to number each trim piece with each edge to keep everything in order.

Pic 10 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Since some of the trim was bowed so I had to add quite a bit of glue in places to make sure it adhered.

Pic 13 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Outside edge trim.

Pic 11 Clock Face Table Tutorial Pic 12 Clock Face Table Tutorial



8. Cut pedestal side pieces. Decide on the height you want your base pedestal to be. 12″ is what we are aiming for this table. It will give our total table height around 16″ to 17″. If you have a taller sofa you’ll want your coffee table to be around 21’’. You will need to cut out 2 pieces at 3-1/4’’ wide by 12’’ long, and 2 more pieces at 2’’ wide by 12’’ long. 

Pic 15 Clock Face Table Tutorial

9. Connect pedestal side pieces. Connect all 4 sides with wood glue and 1’1/4’’ brad nails (make sure when you’re attaching the pieces that the smaller pieces of 2’’ wide are sandwiched in between the other 2 larger sides).

Pic 17 Clock Face Table Tutorial


10. Cut pedestal base and top pieces. Measure the inside length and width of the base and cut it out. Attach with wood glue, one of these small pieces to the underside center of the tabletop. I found the center of the tabletop and drilled a hole to mark the center. Reinforce with 1’’ brad nails through the top of the tabletop.

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Pic 19 295x300 Clock Face Table Tutorial

11. Construct pedestal floor base. Now we can construct the floor base part of the table, with that Restoration Hardware dining table in mind. Farmhouse tables are very popular right now and are a great style to complement reclaimed materials. Get a 2×4 that is at least 4’ long. The 2×4 we are using has holes, and old screw and some normal wear and tear from a previous project. This is ok because it adds charm to our table. Just make sure to take the any screws or nails out before you cut.

Pic 20 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Cut it evenly in half so you have two pieces at 24’’ long. Lay down one of the 24’’ pieces onto your table. Take the other piece and cut it to size. To do this you will have to subtract the width of the 2×4.  The dimensions of a 2×4 are really 1-1/2’’ x 3-1/2’’.  (Keep this in mind with most lumber) subtract the width from the length of one 24’’ piece. Which would be 24’’ minus 3-1/2’’.  Now you have your new length for the second piece to your floor base, which is 20-1/2’’. Next you can cut off exactly 3-1/2’’ of the second board. Then cut this new-sized board directly in half.

Pic 21 Clock Face Table Tutorial

To get the angled look on the floor base, simply bevel cut each edge of the board at 22.5 degrees (or whatever angle you choose). Be careful not to cut off any length of the board. \

12. Attach floor base pieces. I love this Kreg Jig kit I got from Lowes a couple years ago to make pocket holes. It was only $30 and does the job well.

Pic 22 Clock Face Table Tutorial

You will want to drill pocket holes into the 2 shorter pieces. I drilled 2 pocket holes into each smaller board. Add wood glue to the edges and connect them to the center point on your longer 2×4 board.

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Center of short piece

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Center of long piece

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Connected pieces












13. Add feet. I found some scrap wood about ½’’ thick to serve as feet — this helps the table stand more evenly and adds visual dimension. Cut four pieces at the same width as the 2×4 feet. Add wood glue and attach to the bottom of each foot with 1’’ brad nails. Since we are using nails to attach these you want to make sure that the nails are slightly recessed into the wood. This prevents the nail heads from scratching a nice floor or getting snagged on your carpet or rug. Use a Phillips screwdriver on the head of each nail and bang with a rubber mallet to push the nails in a little more.

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Pic 28 259x300 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Recess the nail heads

14. Attach pedestal and floor base. Remember the two very small pieces of wood we had to cut out for the top and bottom of the base pedestal? The first one we attached to the underside center of the tabletop. Now we will attach the second piece to the center of our floor base using four wood screws. Pre-drill 4 holes for 1-1/2’’ wood screws.


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Pre-drilled holes

Add wood glue to the bottom of the small piece and screw in your screws. Add the whole center support base.Pic 30 Clock Face Table Tutorial Use wood glue and 1-1/2’’ brad nails. Nail around the bottom edge.

Pic 31 Clock Face Table Tutorial

15. Add diagonal supports. We need to cut out 4 pieces at 8.25’’ long and angle the edges at 45 degrees. Now we can attach them to the floor base and the base pedestal using wood glue and 1-1/4’’ brad nails. Sand the whole base with 120 grit sandpaper, then again with 220 grit sandpaper to prep the surface for paint and/or stain. Sandpaper is labeled by numbers. The lower the number the rougher it is. 120 grit is good to use first on normal wood. Use a finer grit such as 220 before you paint. If you are using an orbital sander make sure to take your time so you don’t get deep scratch marks. A good rule of thumb is to sand 1 inch per second.

Pic 32 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Now you can fill in the edges and nail holes with wood filler. Always add a little more wood filler than you need because it does tend to shrink when it dries (even the stuff that claims it won’t). Once the wood filler has dried, go over the filled edges with sandpaper.

Pic 33 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Wood filler in nail holes and edges.


16. Paint and distress the table base. I used latex paint I found at the Habitat Wake ReStore (side note — you should check out their ReMix program if you’re in the market for paint). Paint the table base and don’t worry about painting it perfectly because we will be distressing it next.

Pic 34 Clock Face Table Tutorial


 Once the paint dries you can start the fun part of aging the table base. I used my Dremel tool with the 120 grit sander attachment to distress the edges of the base. I love this tool. You can use a Dremel tool for many different things. Sand the edges and corners of the table base. And don’t worry about being perfect because it’s supposed to look a little rugged.

17. Stain the tabletop. I couldn’t decide which shade to stain so I created stain samples on scrap wood flooring pieces. The floor planks are oak so they have a natural reddish tint to them. I decided to go with the gray stain. Its very important to know about the wood you’re working with. Oak is a slow-growing tree, which means the grains are tight. This also means that it will not soak up stain as well as other wood will such as pine. I applied a thicker layer of gray stain and let it sit for about 30 min. After 30 min I wiped off the remaining stain.

Pic 35 300x255 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Stain samples

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 Whatever you do, do not let excessive stain dry on your wood. It will create future problems. Wipe off any stain that will come off. Now you want to let the stain dry completely.

Pic 36 238x300 Clock Face Table Tutorial

18. Paint tabletop.  After the stain has dried completely you can paint. Were going to use roman numeral numbers for the clock numbers. I used stencils I had on hand. Stain has an oil base so you want to make sure you use an oil-based paint like enamel. Arrange your numbers and trace them to ensure even spacing. Once you’ve positioned the stencils, use small pieces of tape to hold down them down while you paint over each number. Less is more when it come to stenciling – if you overload your brush, the paint will bleed under the stencil and make a smudgy mess. Not good. Use a foam brush and dabbing motions with your brush for best results. Remove the stencil and wipe off any excess paint on the front AND back of the stencil before reusing or else you will get wet paint onto random places on your tabletop.

Pic 38 236x300 Clock Face Table Tutorial


19. Sand again! Once the paint has dried you can lightly sand with 220 grit over the numbers to give it a distressed look. I added another stencil painting in the center of the tabletop that has some natural curves, which help break up the sharp angles of the octagon.  Once this has dried repeat the light sanding with 220 grit.  Wipe off any paint dust with a damp rag.

Pic 39 Clock Face Table Tutorial

20. Apply final stain. For the final table top, use a satin polyurethane (also oil-based). It is best to use a good quality natural bristle brush with oil bases. Brush on the polyurethane with long, even brush strokes. Overlap half of your previous brushstrokes when you start a new row. Do not be tempted to pick out any dust or small bugs that fall into your wet polyurethane. Unless you have tweezers on hand, just let it dry where it is. After it has dried for the recommended amount of time, lightly sand over the tabletop with 220 grit sandpaper. This is where you will sand off those pesky dust specs or the mosquito that landed on your wet finish. Wipe off tabletop with a damp rag and repeat steps for another coat of polyurethane. I did three coats total.

21. Attach tabletop to base. Last step! The light at the end of the tunnel is in sight and we are almost done! Add your wood glue and secure the tabletop to the base with 1-1/2 brad nails around the edge just like you did in Step 14.


Pic 40 Clock Face Table Tutorial


We are done! Enjoy and show off to your friends your custom-made reclaimed wood coffee table.


Pic 41 Clock Face Table Tutorial

Raleigh ReStore In-Store Auction

Habitat Wake ReStores are excited to announce our very first in-store silent auction!

Date: Sept 2-17

Location: Raleigh ReStore, 2420 N Raleigh Blvd.

The nitty gritty:

  • You must come into the store to make your bids in person. None will be accepted over the phone, online, or via social media.
  • To bid, first register for a bidder number by filling out a quick form at the cash register.
  • Once you have your bidder number in hand, bid away! Please be mindful of minimum increases. You can bid as many times as you want and on as many different pieces as you want.
  • When the auction concludes we will contact the winners to please come pay and collect their pieces within two business days.
  • All proceeds benefit Habitat Wake’s mission to build affordable homes in Wake County. We appreciate your support!

See below for piece descriptions and photos, or swing by the Raleigh store to see them in person starting September 2nd!

Piece #1: Clock-face Table by Zach Schiller 

14.5″ high x 27″ wide

Base is 19.75″ square

This beautiful table was made by local design student Zach Schiller with materials he found at the ReStore. Zach also generously put together a tutorial on how to make a similar table yourself if you’re feeling handy!

Table 11 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store AuctionTable 22 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store AuctionTable 31 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store AuctionTable 41 1024x768 Raleigh ReStore In Store Auction

Piece #2: Live-Edge Inspired Mirror by Zach Schiller

28″ high x 23″ wide ; 1″ thick

*mounting hardware not included

Another original piece by Zach Schiller, this mirror is made entirely out of ReStore materials. You can find out more about how this piece was made here.


Mirror 3 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store Auction

Mirror 2 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store Auction

Piece #3: Fruit Punch by Ren-Wil (Artist Mia Archer)

5′ high x 5′ wide ; 2″ thick

Mia Archer is a Montreal-based artist whose work is featured by Canadian manufacturer Ren-wil. This particular piece is reminiscent of the works of Clara Berta, who is known for her dramatic abstract paintings.

IMG 5298 edited 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store AuctionIMG 5299 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store Auction

Piece #5: 1987 Yamaha U3 Upright Piano 

This piano was donated in pristine condition and retails for $10,000 — the photos couldn’t do it justice.

IMG 53021 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store AuctionIMG 53031 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store AuctionIMG 53041 768x1024 Raleigh ReStore In Store Auction


Piece #6: Four-Minute Crosstraining Machine 

A last-minute addition! We just got in this incredible exercise machine — one that generally sells for $6000 or more. You can read more about the machine here.

4 minute exercise machine 1024x768 Raleigh ReStore In Store Auction

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